COASTERS - ONCE FAMILIAR IN THE DOCKS, NOW FEW
Besides nostalgic references to Union-Castle voyages, my Saturday chat over coffee with an avid reader of this column - there are such folks! - opened my eyes to what can be found during a beach ramble - an array of shells, whale fossils and more, many discovered on that lovely stretch of beach not far from his Table View home.
"Every tide on that long beach," wrote Lawrence Green in his book South African Beachcomber, "washes romance into my path" That beach, to the east of Robben Island strait, holds a similar fascination for me.
I have passed through that strait several times in the mailship St Helena, heading for a delightful spell at sea, and an equally delightful time on the island of that name, confronted at every turn by historical reminders of the British empire, of Napoleon, of the Zulu war, the Anglo-Boer war, and more recent history.
Past those white sands of the Table View beach steamed the tiny Thesen coasters on passage to Port Nolloth, Luderitz or Lambert's Bay.
On one occasion, Xhosa Coast, chartered initially from Dutch owners as Paraat and later bought by Thesen for the Port Nolloth service, loaded a large gas tank as deck cargo and sailed from Cape Town shortly before midnight. Early the following morning, Thesens received a call from the air force base at Ysterplaat.
"Has one of your ships lost a tank overboard?" inquired the duty officer who had received a report from a pilot that a tank was floating north of Melkbos. The coaster master confirmed that the tank had gone overboard, for the police to find it ashore near Ysterfontein.
When calling at Lambert's Bay to discharge diesel and to load fish oil for Cape Town, the smaller Thesen's vessels went alongside a dolphin berth, while the larger Pondo Coast and Griqua Coast anchored off the port for small boats to ferry bagged fish meal and cartons of canned fish to them.
Ovambo, the last ship to be registered in the name of Thesen but not to be confused with an earlier Ovambo Coast that was wrecked on Marcus Island in 1958, also passed through the Robben Island strait dozens of times as she traded along the west coast for nine years. Among her unusual ports of call was Sandy Point in St Helena Bay to load frozen fish, now carried to Cape Town by truck.
The 61-metre coastal tanker Oranjemund also carried me through the strait on the homeward run from Luderitz, a trip that can be rough when the south-easter whips up a heavy head-sea that causes severe pitching. The propellers of that lightly laden mini-tanker frequently bit the air, sending shudders through the entire ship.
On her northbound voyage laden with diesel for the Luderitz fishing fleets, Oranjemund usually kept Robben Island to starboard in the latter years of her west coast trade, a response to tightened regulations surrounding the carriage of oil products.
Huge trucks put the coasters out of business, and the small west coast ports now have other roles. From Port Nolloth, tenders serve the diamond mining vessels, and Luderitz, modified to berth small containerships, now exports processed zinc.
And thus from that beach, I no longer see those small ships heading for the west coast ports, laden with household goods, drums of fuel and diesel in their tanks. Instead, there is the inevitable queue of containerships, delayed by the wind and by the reduced number of berths while the upgrade of the terminal drags on.
As the cold front approached last week-end, Safmarine Oranje and a few other ships left the summer anchorage off Sea Point and headed for a safer area off that beach. Her container load looked better than when I sailed in her last July, perhaps a positive sign for the South Africa-US trade and perhaps the containership market in general.
Indeed, a British journal reported last week of a glimmer in the firmament of container shipping which, it said, was looking better than 12 months ago as volumes and freight rates have been rising recently. Chinese containership indices also showed a positive trend, and a small number of laid-up vessels have returned to service.
As the fruit season swings into gear, the South Africa-Europe Container Service (SAECS) will increase its reefer capacity by adding extra vessels to its existing fleet with DAL Madagascar stemmed for 15 February as the first of these additional ships.
One wonders what will be the future of the 19-year-old Safmarine Oranje, the only commercial vessel on the South African register. Certainly, the tardiness of various government departments to process legislation pertaining to the local ships' register has not helped and for a while, dockland gossip has pointed to her flagging elsewhere. If that should become a reality, it will mean that every ton of cargo passing through South African ports is carried by foreign-owned ships, with foreign owners reaping the benefits.
Some may be prompted to lobby government for the introduction of some form of cabotage whereby a percentage of local cargo must be carried in South African-flagged ships, a proposal that will precipitate heated dockland debate.
Other spray in the wind may indicate some restructuring ahead for local shipping operations that could have a profound effect on the broader maritime picture.
Watch this space.
- A three-ship German naval flotilla will arrive in Simon's Town on Monday to join the tanker, Westerwald, already in port.